Ravenous In Rhinebeck

Rhinebeck, a small village by the Hudson, boasts a disproportionate amount of gourmet delights. The Culinary Institute of America has a campus nearby, and some of the alumni stick around to feed the lucky natives. The influence of the school, combined with the wealth of local orchards and farms, ensures a delicious experience for miles around.

My companion took a one-day culinary survey of the town this past Saturday. We began at Terrapin Restaurant (37 Montgomery St., 845-876-3330), which is known for its inventive tapas and extensive wine selection. The creamy roasted garlic soup was zesty and soothing, and I greatly enjoyed a Fontina and onion quesadilla -its crisp flour tortilla oozed with cheese and was topped with a spoonful of salsa. (We felt that the macadamia-crusted calamari were somewhat less successful; the batter was reminiscent of what you would find around an onion ring, and the squid were chewy instead of tender.) We finished with a grilled Nutella sandwich and banana ice cream.

Next it was on to the Olde Hudson (6423 Montgomery St., 845-876-3933), a delightful little gourmet shop with barrels of olives and a variety of chocolates including those made by Jake Novick-Finder, a 14-year-old who trained in Paris and at NYC's own Chanterelle. The Jakery is the name of this precocious teen's truffle company (845-406-2796).

I was deeply impressed by Rhinebeck Health Foods (24 Garden St. 845-876-2005), which is not just for health nuts! In addition to bulk spices, organic pasta, and produce, the store features a wonderful imported cheese section (Mimolette, Fromage D'Affinois, etc.) and organic London Broil. The shop's casual Garden Street Cafe serves up a menu of soups, salads and wraps.

I imagine that no trip to Rhinebeck would be complete without a chewy white chocolate chip/dried apricot cookie at Samuel's of Rhinebeck, Inc. (42 East Market St., 888-726-8351). In addition to coffee and tea, Samuel's sells chocolate-covered plums, Sarabeth's preserves, and an enticing "Hot Fudge Sundae Cone" mix. Just open the "cone," heat up some cream with the chocolate powder, add to your favorite ice cream and sprinkle with the included chocolate chips and marshmallows.

The highlight of our day was a 4-course prix fixe dinner (at $55, a steal) in the Belvedere Mansion. CIA-trained chef Robert Mayerat presides over the French-inspired, constantly changing menu. We loved the shredded duck crostini served with a Brie souffle, the Stilton-crumbled arugula-frisee salad, the Alaskan salmon with shavings of black truffle and horseradish mashed potatoes, and especially the warm chocolate ganache cake accompanied by chocolate ice cream and crisp spun sugar.

If you'd like to experience your own day of deliciousness in Rhinebeck, the annual Taste of Rhinebeck will be held on Monday, March 20th! Call 845-871-3505 for more information.

5 Ninth

The Meatpacking District was uncharacteristically deserted on a chilly Monday night. As I sat down at 5 Ninth's rustic bar to wait for a friend, the bartender remarked that we'd have no problem finding a table. Indeed, for the first 30 minutes of our meal, we had the intimate, votive-lit restaurant all to ourselves. Then, the room slowly filled with regulars and excited initiates. (Next to us was a couple so enthralled with the menu that they ordered enough appetizers for 4 people.)

5 Ninth's Asian-influenced menu makes much use of pork. There are entrees of pork ribs and pork shoulder, two roast pork sandwiches, and a Berkshire pork belly appetizer. The menu also emphasizes sweet flavors such as Szechuan caramel, palm sugar chili paste and Vietnamese mint. We were also to discover a penchant for spice. The Italian bread was accompanied by chili dipping oil. Slices of green chilis fired up my yellowtail sashimi appetizer, and a whole red chili arrived with the Berkshire pork belly. The sweet-glazed, luscious slabs of pork lay atop a pile of garlicky, spicy long beans. The waiter advised us to punctuate a bite of pork with a bite of chili, and to then cool down the palate with a sticky rice cake.

Hot spices have an amazing ability to stimulate the appetite, so we were quite ready for the butter-and-sriracha-braised Jamison Farm lamb in chili lamb jus with gingered Chinese broccoli and crispy fried rice cakes, and the seared bass with pickled garlic, Japanese mushrooms and greens. The bass's skin was nicely crisp, but the portion was a bit small for me, so I needed to order a side of jasmine rice. (Sticky rice is also available.) Actually, I would've liked a whole order of the delectable rice cakes!

My friend doesn't have much of a sweet tooth, so she abstained from dessert, instead ordering a glass of Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner. (My sweet tooth is enough for two, anyway.) Desserts included banana spring rolls and carrot spice cake; I chose the fresh doughnuts with hot chocolate and coconut sorbet. The four sugar-sprinkled, golden-brown doughnuts were heaped into a small white bowl. I rolled the hot fried globes around with my fork to catch all the excess sugar. Although the waiter recommended that I dip the doughnuts in the hot chocolate, I really preferred them on their own!

A small boy ran upstairs into the dining room. (I wanted to offer him a doughnut.) "Hudson, come here," called his mother. Has the Meatpacking District has become so trendy that people are naming their kids after its streets?

5 Ninth: 5 Ninth Ave., (surprised?) (212) 929-9460.

Pizza Freebies

Walking down a Williamsburg street, I caught sight of a large sign advertising free pizza. It turns out that although there is a catch, it's quite a small one! A pizza enthusiast has only to purchase one alcoholic beverage at Capone's Bar and he will be plied with an entire pie. What a deal!

I haven't yet been to Capone's, but I'm a huge fan of Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza & Penne, which offers its own unique freebie: complimentary anchovies. I'm aware that the appeal of anchovies is not universal, but who can resist a sweet and hot sausage pie with roasted peppers?

Capone's Bar: 221 North 9th St., Williamsburg, (718) 599-4044. Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza & Penne, 800 Sixth Ave., (212) 213-5081.

Supercore Cafe

After hearing the ominous weather forecast, I calculated how much time I had left before the estimated arrival of the snowstorm and headed out for one last restaurant fix. I just wanted a simple lunch, but I craved a hot drink - cider, or a cappuccino, or a hot chocolate.

I ended up with a perfect green tea latte at Supercore Cafe. Supercore is a comfy cafe/bar where you can linger over a book, surf the Web or share drinks and tapas. The decor is typical '70s Williamsburg with a bit of Japan thrown in. The cuisine lies somewhere at the intersect between Japanese homestyle and gourmet diner. Olives, goat cheese, edamame and dried squid are advertised on the tapas blackboard.

Supercore's reasonably-priced menu includes panini, beef curry, donburi, baked creamy parmesan penne, egg salad on a croissant, meatballs and pasta, and nikujaga. You can accompany your meal with either focaccia and salad, or rice and spinach. I ordered the marinated ginger-and-radish-topped mackerel ($6.50), of which there were three moist slabs. My spinach was smothered in sesame sauce, and there was a nice portion of seaweed-sprinkled white rice. And the latte was terrific. The sweet, creamy drink came in a cavernous mug which I could lift with both hands. When I took a sip, I was surprised by earthy, grassy green tea instead of the sharp taste of coffee.

I meant to order a warm chocolate cake, but when I looked out the window, I saw the first snowflakes begin to fall. And there was the bus: perfect timing.

Supercore Cafe: 305 Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, (718) 302-1629.

A New Definition For "Blind Date"

Here's a way to make sure your Valentine's date isn't checking out the competition: blindfold him! Where can you do this without attracting the attention of everyone in the room? At CAMAJE Bistro, which is hosting a 4-course Valentine's Day meal with mandatory blindfolds for all diners. According to the bistro's publicist, this concept originated in Germany, where there apparently exists a pitch-black restaurant. Is this a case of the blind feeding the blind?

CAMAJE Bistro: 85 MacDougal St., (212) 673-8184.

Organic Ecuadorian Arriba Cocoa Nib Brownies

I have a secret. Within the recesses of my refrigerator, there is a box of Arriba Nib brownies from Vosges Haut-Chocolat. Apparently, the cocoa nibs are redolent of jasmine and orange blossoms. I bought this box of brownies as a Valentine's Day gift, and it's going to be a very long six days until February 14 - how can I restrain myself from opening the box? Vosges was sold out of the individual brownies, so I couldn't buy one to try for myself.

Vosges Haut-Chocolat: 132 Spring St., (212) 625.2929.

An Out-Of-Season Craving, Satisfied

It may be the middle of winter, but you can still sink your teeth into a popular summer specialty: zucchini blossoms. Novita's Marco Fregonese religiously imports the little green gems from Israel, and then stuffs them with creamy bufala ricotta. The rich, slightly warmed cheese oozes out when you fork apart one of the lightly fried blossoms, which are served on a slice of prosciutto and a salad dressed with mustard vinaigrette.

Novita: 102 East 22nd St., (212) 677-2222.

Via Quadronno

Via Quadronno is one of my favorite cafes in the city. During the summertime, I often avail myself of the outdoor gelato cart; on a rainy day, I'll sit in the window with a cappuccino. Today, I decided to introduce my Italian-food-loving (well, all-food-loving) grandmother to Via Quadronno. (One of the great things about dining with her is that she always wants me to try what she orders.)

We arrived just before the noon lunch rush, which was lucky - a line of people soon stretched down the length of the restaurant. As we settled in our well-cushioned wooden banquettes, I began reading the menu to my grandmother, because she refuses to wear glasses. Via Quadronno specializes in Italian sandwiches: single-ingredient (mortadella, pancetta, salame) on French bread, open-faced tartines on thinly sliced brioche toast (white truffles and Fontina, bottarga, tuna and artichoke), and special Milanese panini with up to six ingredients. There are also many types of bruschetta and crostini (this place is bread heaven!), as well as salads, carpaccio, meat lasagna and a daily risotto and pasta.

I decided that the tartini would be just perfect for my grandmother, as they are rather small. She would've been overwhelmed by the smoked ham, goat, Camembert, fontina tomato, tabasco sandwich. Her choice was the open-faced jumbo lump crabmeat, and I went for the salmon roe. However, I knew I needed something in addition, and debated for a while over the swordfish carpaccio and the minestrone. The waiter made my decision: soup of the day. I munched on garlic bread and dipped it in the rich vegetable puree while my grandmother told stories about the much-missed 2nd Avenue Deli - a sandwich heaven of a quite different ilk.

Although the tartini were small, they did not skimp on sweet crabmeat or a blanket of sparkling fresh salmon roe. "Try mine!" urged my grandmother. I obliged.

Soon it was time for dessert and a fabulous Antica Tostatura Triestina cappuccino. "How's the tiramisu?" I asked the waiter. "It's the BEST in the CITY!" Once again, he made my decision.

Generally, I tend to be rather particular about tiramisu. I'm suspicious of parfait presentations, or tiramisu in a pie. I'm not fond of extraneous drizzles of raspberry and chocolate syrup. And nothing causes my heart to sink like the presence of whipped cream rather than mascarpone. But I knew we were in good hands here.

And indeed the dessert was perfection. A nicely freeform square of tiramisu was plush with lightly sweetened, creamy mascarpone. Its layers of ladyfingers were neither sodden nor too crisp, and there was just a hint of Marsala. I was surprised at how fast my grandmother finished it!

Via Quadronno: 25 East 73rd St., (212) 650-9880.

Cooking with Etsuko

Last weekend, I embarked upon a survey of Japanese ingredients at Mitsuwa Marketplace. Today, I learned about the uses for those ingredients at Etsuko Kizawa's Basic Japanese Home Cooking class. Etsuko, owner of Soy NYC, teaches a variety of classes in Soy's shoebox kitchen, and the students get to eat the delicious results.

Our lesson covered the preparation of miso soup, rice, oshitashi (a spinach dish) and sake-simmered cod. While expertly preparing the meal, Etsuko took the time to give us a primer on miso (dark red goes with clams, red is Tokyo-style and white is more common in Osaka). She spoke of adding different vegetable combinations to a simple miso soup: daikon and watercress, or potato and mushroom.

As she gathered the ingredients for the oshitashi sauce, she talked a bit about cooking implements. She mentioned the importance of her prized miso scoop and special tweezers for removing small fish bones. A giant pair of chopsticks was used to plunge the oshitashi spinach into ice-cold water.

We learned how to make the fluffiest short-grain rice (Etsuko prefers the pot to the rice cooker). We were also told of the affinity that soy sauce has for citrus, ginger's amazing ability to mask a particularly fishy flavor, and the use of sugar in Japanese cuisine. The aromas of delicious home cooking began to fill the kitchen, and my stomach started to growl. Etsuko covered the simmering cod with wax paper and showed us how the sweet sauce was bubbling underneath.

Not a moment too soon, it was time to eat. Soup was placed on the right, rice on our left (this was traditional, we found) with the fish and vegetables farthest from us.
As we ate with gusto, Etsuko recounted some of her latest experiments. Apparently her green tea Rice Krispie treats have become quite a hit, with customers bringing them to Japan by the batch. I can personally vouch for these treats!

Soy NYC: 102 Suffolk St., (212) 253-1158.

Gilt

I was recently asked if I were familiar with "molecular gastronomy." Although I was vaguely aware of the culinary experiments of Ferran Adria and Grant Achatz, I'd never eaten the fruits (and meats) of their labors.

My interest was piqued, and I began searching for articles about this culinary science. Apparently, some chefs are stretching food preparation to the outer limits of possibility. Armed with new technical knowledge and a desire to push the papillote, they're creating a whole new world of cuisine.

Tonight, my companion and I made a pilgrimage to New York's new shrine to molecular gastronomy: Gilt. We didn't know quite what to expect when we walked through the doors of what used to be Le Cirque 2000. (We'd imagined that the cuisine of 3000 would be housed in a structure more like this.)

However, Chef Paul Liebrandt's powerful imagination soon engulfed us to the point where we no longer noticed the decor. His cuisine naturally lends itself to metaphor; I found myself commenting that we were eating snowflakes - intricate works of art which melted in our mouths.

Gilt's menu includes "Classical" and "Modern" prix fixe selections (there's also a separate daily tasting menu). One may choose appetizers and entrees from either list. (I went with a classical appetizer and a modern entree.)

After ordering some Pinot Grigio (the cocktail prices made us wonder if the restaurant should've been named Guilt, or Gelt), we were served our first amuse-bouche: a spoonful of sprouts atop a heap of shredded filo, some arugula financiers with an internal surprise of melted Stilton, black truffle discs filled with red onion chutney, and dried beet curls with sour salt. The financiers included a sweet pear-raisin chutney that was just wonderful with the Stilton.

We were then delighted by a second round: artichoke foam with a hidden egg and crispy black trumpet mushrooms in a charmingly askew cup, smoky crimson venison carpaccio, scallop tortellini in a heady marine broth with pea shoots, and a disc of chicken accented with fennel. Each dish was a small universe of flavor, color and texture. I was reminded of chawan mushi, a Japanese egg custard which holds little surprises the farther one's spoon travels.

And then, the bread! How were we to choose from this selection of hot rolls: olive, Serrano, potato, sweet chestnut, and flaky brioche? Naturally, we each had about three of them. Two different butters arrived on stone slabs: unsalted L'Escure and salted English butter.

Then, we were treated to a stimulating palate-cleanser. A mother-of-pearl shell was the setting for a scoop of wasabi-sprinkled apple sorbet in a few drops of precious Armando Manni olive oil. Our appetites thus stoked, we were ready for our appetizers.

Although I'd been tempted by the porcini crumble with baby turnips, I'd ordered the butternut squash soup. Foam was poured on top of curried orange foam, a shard of Parmesan, crisp sage leaves and a few delectable Parmesan tortellini. My companion went modern, choosing the "flavors of winter." Of these five dishes, most memorable for me was the purple baby abalone jelly. There was also a crab cake underneath a gelee into which herbs were suspended and a plate of sweetbreads.

Another round of bread, and we were ready for our entrees. Each of them was a sort of themed fantasy: my companion's theme was beet, and mine was coriander. Beet puree surrounded thick slices of rich Peking duck and leaves of crispy red chard. (We were constantly amazed at the Liebrandt's ability to keep thinly sliced vegetables perfectly crispy in a soup or sauce.) More beets, served steaming from plastic wrap, accompanied the duck. My loup de mer had a crown of sweet coriander "glass," and underneath the fish I discovered a profusion of snow peas, pearl onions, Thai basil and tiny black squid-ink gnocchi. My side dish was a coriander fish stew; razor clams, large sweet shrimp and starlike baby squid sat in a broth with sea beans and tiny potatoes.

Dessert was just as elaborate. First, there was another amuse-bouche: clementine sections and lychee sorbet amid a smattering of crunchy orange cookie pellets, mint leaves and cubes of fruit gel. Then, for the main event, my companion chose the passionfruit souffle with sour cream guava sorbet (and more artisanal olive oil); I, of course, desired some chocolate. The menu listed two chocolate desserts: chocolate chili and chocolate peanut butter. The latter brought me to new heights of ecstasy. Described as an assortment of "warm chocolate croneski, peanut butter chocolate, rice crispie croquant and fleur de sel caramel," it was an intense concoction which mixed sweet and salty, creamy and crunchy. Streams of warm chocolate flooded out of three globes of chocolate cake, mixed with small dots of caramel, and made their way over to a dense oval of creamy peanut butter and chocolate atop a layer of nuts and crisped rice. Before I knew it, my companion's fork had claimed half of the peanut butter chocolate. I didn't mind, however, because a plate of petits fours soon arrived. (I loved the pistachio financier, the passionfruit pate de fruit, and the mint-foam-topped key lime tart.) Also, there was a cigar box full of homemade truffles: coconut, Pedro Ximenez sherry, mint, espresso, and matcha. We were told that we could eat as many truffles as we wanted!

As if all of this weren't enough, we were plied with pretty bags of homemade macarons upon our departure. I haven't yet mustered up the appetite to try them, but I know they are no ordinary macarons. True to the adventurous nature of Gilt, one of them is topped with chili powder.

Gilt: 455 Madison Ave. at the New York Palace Hotel, (212) 891-8100.

Mitsuwa Marketplace

Mitsuwa Marketplace is a sort of Disneyland for those who love Japanese food and culture (but especially food). The food court/grocery/shopping complex used to be known as Yaohan, but after changing names and undergoing renovation, it's even more of a food destination than before. Although Mitsuwa is not technically in New York, it's just a $2.00, 30-minute ride from Port Authority's Gate 51. The shuttle operates about every 30 minutes.

I caught the 1 p.m. shuttle today. After being treated to a brief tour of how the other half of the Hudson lives, I was deposited in front of Utsuwa, Mitsuwa's gift shop. Within, I found chopsticks, an assortment of tableware similar to that of Chinatown's Pearl River Mart, tons of Hello Kitty kitsch, and some other tchotchkes. (I bought a couple of those lucky cats.)

It is often said that one should not go grocery shopping on an empty stomach. So, after browsing through the Sanseido bookstore, I walked over to Matsushima, the free-standing waterfront Japanese restaurant. Unfortunately, this decision turned out to be a mistake. Although the menu was extensive and the display of lunch specialts appealing, the grilled fish in my bento was as dry as toast. Perhaps I just ordered badly; the other patrons seemed to relish their meals. At any rate, the waterfront view was pleasant.

Full, if not satisfied, I finally entered the mecca that is Mitsuwa. Now there's where I should've eaten. Since renovation, the food options have multiplied. Today, happy and hungry customers bustled to and fro, taking stock of all the stations. Many crowded around Katsuhana, a stand which sold fried pork and shrimp lunches. There was also a line of people waiting for bowls of steaming udon at Sanuki-Sando-Udon. Ramen sets were available at Santoko. I also noticed the Italian Tomato (pasta) and St. Honore (pastry) stands (these were identical to the ones at JAS Mart).

My map must have been out of date, because it listed Chinese and Korean take-out counters. Instead, there were two other businesses: Iseya, which sold bubble tea, "pizza buns," and small sweet cakes (obviously fresh ones, because an old lady was waiting near the cash register asking, "Are they ready yet?") and a counter devoted to fried croquettes, sweet potato tempura, fried Japanese mackerel, spring rolls and whole purple squids.

Manhattan's Minamoto Kitchoan was represented; I bought one of their chocolate sponge cakes and some green tea maple syrup puddings. I then walked past the woman handing out hot gyoza and noticed Oishinbo, which sold the beloved taiyaki, or sweet red bean-stuffed waffles shaped like carp. But since the cakes were served hot off the iron, I decided to pick up a couple when I was finished grocery shopping. Satisfied that I'd sufficiently cased the place, I started exploring the grocery aisles.

The home appliances were all cordoned off, with a sign explaining that Bergen County's blue laws prohibit the sale of home appliances on Sundays. I found this truly odd! Fortunately, none of the food was off-limits. The produce section featured an impressive variety of root vegetables such as purple yams (on sale), taro, Japanese sweet potatoes, and super-long gobo. There must have been a million types of miso! Moving onto the fish and meat sections, I saw that sliced ribeye for shabu shabu was on sale, as well as yellowtail sashimi. There were spices, there were rices... I excitedly grabbed a jar of yuzu kosho, a spicy citrus pepper which I'd first tried at Ony.

Even the beverage selection was overwhelming! Sake, shochu, soju, plum wine, iced chicory barley pu-erh tea... I bought a small bottle of junmai ginjo, some Boss coffee, and a precious vial of highest quality green tea leaves.

Next it was on to the frozen food aisle. Although I was trying to avoid buying perishable items, I picked up a few frozen eels (both barbequed and non-barbequed). My other purchases were a bottle of seaweed/rice cracker seasoning for rice soup, prepared spicy squid legs, and sesame-seasoned broccoli rape. Oh, and close to the cashier I saw that some sea urchin rice crackers were on sale. How could I miss out on something so exotic-sounding?

Mitsuwa Marketplace: 595 River Rd., Edgewater, NJ, (201) 941-9113.

Sweets News

• Valentine's Day will be here before you know it, and if you're looking for a way to profess your undying devotion, you might consider sending your beloved a dozen Wicked Whoopies. These giant cookie sandwiches, stuffed to the limit with 8 different creamy fillings, are sending me into paroxysms of delight. Isamax Snacks: (877) 447-2629.
  
  
• I'm happy to say that I've recently started writing for Pastry Art & Design. (Under my real name, of course.) Look for my first article in February; it's about feuilletine and features recipes by 4 great pastry chefs.

The Burger-Of-The-Month Diet?

Browsing in Barnes & Noble today, I noticed the prominent diet book display, which was obviously marketed towards guilty holiday gorgers. The featured tomes all seemed to conflict with one another. One title implored me to eat more bread, another to eat more rice. Still another promised to erase my wrinkles as well as my weight. There was the Jerusalem diet, the Japanese diet and a diet that promised me that if I could acquire French citizenship, I would never get fat.

After leafing through a 5-Week Cure and a One-Day Approach, I threw up my hands and went home. When I turned on my computer, I was confronted with the following E-mail:

O’NEILL’S INTRODUCES ‘BREAK YOUR RESOLUTION BURGER’ FOR JANUARY

Burger and Beer Program Makes Great Gift for Your Favorite NYC Carnivore

When it comes to breaking New Year’s resolutions the motto is go big or go home. Whether you’ve already broken your resolution or you’re looking for the right time, New York’s O’Neill’s Irish Pub is offering up a “Break Your Resolution Burger” for January that won’t leave your taste buds with any regrets.

For just $10, guests can enjoy a juicy “Break Your Resolution Burger” loaded
with blue cheese, guacamole and bacon, served with French fries and a pint of
Smithwicks Irish Ale for lunch or dinner.

The January burger is part of O’Neill’s 2006 “Burger of the Month” program
which pairs a specialty burger and French fries with a pint of beer for lunch
or dinner..."

I suppose I should just give up now.

O’Neill’s: 729 3rd Ave., (212) 661-3530.

Out With The Old, In With The New... Appliances

Every so often, I'll develop an obsession with time-saving kitchen gadgets. As an outer-borough dweller who spends hours on the subway, I eat most of my meals in Manhattan, but I still fantasize about cooking at home.

Sometimes a fascination with one machine will lead to another. A few years ago, I brought a Tiger rice cooker home from Tokyo. I was amazed at its ability to make perfect rice in 30 minutes. But as I was browsing through Amazon.com, I noticed an intriguing new appliance: the Zojirushi NH-VBC18 10-Cup Rice Cooker and Warmer with Induction Heating System. I just had to have this new-fangled rice cooker; it makes soft, regular, hard, semi-brown, brown, sweet, and mixed rice. Unlike other rice cookers, it features an "extended-warm" button that keeps rice moist for days. You can even program it to have your rice ready for you when you arrive home or wake up. I like to get up and pretend I'm in Japan... I'll have a bowl of rice mixed with egg, soy sauce and natto.

But I usually just have a cup of coffee in the morning. Although I love my stovetop Bialetti cappuccino maker, my quest for convenience has led me to scope out other machines. The Saeco Vienna Deluxe used to be my favorite coffeemaker, but I soon grew tired of cleaning the grounds from the inside of the machine. Now I just press a button each morning for my Nespresso.

Last month, my 8-year-old Black & Decker toaster suddenly gave out. I soon learned how far toasters have advanced the last few years... they've merged with convection ovens! Krups even produces a model in which you can push a button for cookies, or thin pizza, or thick pizza... I purchased the slightly less feature-rich Krups FBC2 6-Slice Digital Convection Toaster Oven. It includes a non-stick bake pan and a broil tray.

My last purchase isn't a replacement, but rather a new gadget. This appliance might seem a bit frivolous (indeed, one Amazon reviewer wrote that she stands by it "even in the face of ridicule"), but I've found myself using it more than I expected. The Krups 230-70 Electric Egg Express Egg Cooker makes 7 hard-boiled or soft-boiled eggs, or 2 poached. (When boiling them the traditional way, I'd always forget about them and they'd crack.) Make some toast and you'll have an instant breakfast, or save the boiled eggs for your next Nicoise!

What's Better Than Le Bernardin?

Why, Le Bernardin by the pool in 80-degree weather, of course. Eric Ripert, the restaurant's celebrated chef, has brought his craft to bluer pastures with the opening of Blue and Periwinkle at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman. I'm reminiscing over my recent delicious experiences there on Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page.

Enoteca I Trulli

If you don't crave the fanfare of a multi-course meal, but rather a glass of wine and a light dish, NYC's wine bars were made for you. Every day it seems that another excellent restaurant has spun off a cozy, informal lounge. Al Di La Vino and Bar @ Etats Unis spring to mind, as does the lovely little Enoteca I Trulli.

For some reason, I've always found I Trulli to be on the ascetic side (you won't find four-cheese-anything there). Perhaps the cuisine of Apulia is characteristically light? I don't know, but after all my holiday indulgences, I thought I should (temporarily) practice moderation.

I sat down at a wooden table inscribed with various wine labels, although there were still seats at the bar. While sipping a glass of Montepulciano, I noticed that the menu was a somewhat abbreviated version of the one next door. The ravioli of the day was chicken and mushroom, but I decided on a simple bowl of chewy cavatelli. The flour dumplings were very lightly sauced with broccoli rape, garlic and olive oil; a few toasted almond slivers provided an interesting crunch. Almost no sauce remained once I was finished with the generous portion of pasta.

Naturally, I wanted to see the dessert menu. I opted for the lightest selection - the assortment of sorbets. (Of course, I had to bring an additional dessert home for the hungry companion. A dense, warm chocolate hazelnut cake was greatly appreciated.) The sorbet dessert featured three flavors: fruity quince, tangy pear and bracing, almost bitter (in a good way!) grapefruit. A sprig of mint, some grapefruit sections and a homemade cookie garnished the bowl. Next time, I intend to sample one of the intriguing wine/dessert pairings; various wines are matched with pecorino, sweet pasta and homemade biscotti.

Enoteca I Trulli: 122 East 27th St., (212) 481-7372.

BLT Fish

I thought that the transit strike would empty out the restaurants, but BLT Fish was as crowded as ever last night. My friends and I sat down a little before 10 p.m. We'd originally intended to eat at the downstairs BLT Fish Shack, but the menu from upstairs just spoke to us (as did the relative quietude).

Before our chosen selections, we were presented with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and finely minced apple with creme fraiche. We were then surprised by the deceptively humble cheddar-chive biscuits, which in my opinion, were one of the most memorable foods of the evening - moist, buttery and flaky all at once. I tore my steaming biscuit apart and slathered it with butter and maple syrup. As I think back on the amazing popovers at BLT Steak, I wonder if a BLT Bakery could be next for Tourondel.

The grilled Ecuadorian shrimp appetizer was sold out, so I ordered the spicy tuna tartare. It was similar to BLT Steak's rendition in that the square of tuna was served on a layer of avocado. However, it included a dollop of American caviar and was creamy with spicy mayonnaise. Its flavor did not include a hint of soy, but rather zesty lemon.

The menu, which features whole fish by the pound, included sea bass and Cantonese-style red snapper. But when I heard that only one Mediterranean loup de mer remained, I had to order it. My friends enjoyed the four plump grilled Maine sea scallops and the Alaskan king salmon steaks with tangy ginger ketchup and mild roasted garlic aioli. My own loup de mer arrived already filleted; although the fish was moist and rich-flavored, I prefer the spectacle of a whole fish. Not to mention, it fills the plate!

Our chosen sides were the Parmesan gnocchi, baked fennel, garlic mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and grilled asparagus. All were exceedingly rich! The asparagus was topped with thin slices of Parmesan, buttered bread crumbs decorated the fennel, and the gnocchi were half-an-inch deep in cream.

By now our stomachs were groaning. Naturally, I was the only one to order a dessert (the others were satisfied by the complimentary green apple cotton candy and petits fours). Deliberating between the lime millefeuilles and the caramelized meringue, I finally decided on the pumpkin tart. The accompanying ice cream provided an interesting cognitive dissonance; expecting a mouthful of cold ice cream, I was hit with a rush of hot spice. I would've loved to take home a pint of it! And it was only fitting that having begun my meal with a crunchy-topped tuna tartare, I would end it with a crunchy hazelnut-topped pumpkin tart.

Next stop, BLT Prime!

BLT Fish: 21 West 17th St., (212) 691-8888.

Gifts For The Gourmet

Are you still stumped for holiday gift ideas? Here's a present any foodie friend will appreciate: an international cooking class. The New School teaches everything from a "Roast Suckling Pig Workshop" to a "Paris Bistro Feast." But if your friend is more interested in dining out, the "BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE GREAT RESTAURANTS OF NEW YORK ™" series may be right up his alley. (Or, if his table manners are less than adequate, you might want to enroll him in "Dining Etiquette for Adults.")

A Regular's Lament

I was becoming increasingly devoted to the Japanese fusion cuisine of Komegashi (928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000). I loved the thick, rectangular slabs of grilled skewered fish and the unexpected flavors and textures in the maki. The Valrhona chocolate souffle accompanied by homemade maple, vanilla and orange-chocolate ice cream was a treat I looked forward to. And there was that "regular" treatment... when the waitress noticed that I'd left a piece of sushi untouched, she would ask the chef to prepare any fish I wanted to replace it.

So, you can imagine how disconcerted I was to learn that Komegashi will be no more after next week. The restaurant has been sold. Apparently, four out of five NYC restaurants close within five years. But I wonder, what is the reason for this particular failure? Were the guests expecting a more traditional Japanese cuisine? Were they put off by the beef jus/red wine/soy dipping sauce that was served with the skewered meats and fish, or did they not appreciate the sprinkling of sansho pepper atop the freshwater eel? It's true that the offerings were not inexpensive; a "foamed" miso soup with fried tofu was $6. But many New Yorkers willingly pay premium prices for quality Japanese food.

Presentation was certainly not the problem; nor was decor. So, I surmise that the location did Komegashi in. Just one block east, Park Avenue South teems with crowded restaurants; I couldn't even get a seat at Haru tonight. But there aren't many places to dine on Broadway in the lower 20s. Komegashi was the only restaurant on its block. Adding to this problem was the fact that Komegashi's building was landmarked, so there were heavy restrictions on signage. Many people walked by the door without even realizing that there was a restaurant inside. (Slightly south of Komegashi, the still-popular Craftbar features a prominent sign.)

I wish the new owners better luck, but I'll miss Komegashi. I may even stop by next week to enjoy my "regular" status for the last time.

Heirloom (Closed as of 4/06)

Pure Food And Wine owner Matthew Kenney has added another establishment to his rapidly expanding vegetarian empire: Heirloom. Open just a week, Heirloom already seems to have its formula down pat. The servers are knowledgeable and friendly, the semicircle banquettes are comfy, and the food is artfully presented and sometimes startling in its creativity.

The restaurant is upscale, but it aims to comfort. Tonight, my companion and I were delighted to receive a complimentary basket of jalapeno hush puppies. Although I would have liked a bit more jalapeno, I did get the requisite kick from the accompanying spicy creme fraiche. (There was also a maple mustard butter.)

Although the portobello "foie gras" appetizer sounded appealing, I decided on the carrot soup. A spiral of creme fraiche, a hint of chive oil and a few chewy carrot dumplings had me tilting the bowl to collect the last few drops of soup. But I was especially enthralled with my companion's "tempura sushi." Gossamer slices of persimmon, artichoke and chayote were colorful stand-ins for sushi fish, and tempura haricot verts provided some crunch in the maki.

I enjoyed my entree, but my heart belonged to my companion's "seafood trio." This assortment of trumpet royale and bluefoot mushrooms was disguised as seared scallops, fried calamari and grilled fluke, which were served on a bed of garlicky sauteed spinach. The scallops in particular were eerily authentic. I ordered the moqueca, which is a Brazilian shrimp stew usually served with rice. Heirloom's veggie interpretation showcased delicious chunks of flash-fried housemade tofu, but excluded the rice; I missed it. (The accompanying banana pepper empanadas were a nice touch.)

My dessert was an impressive, cocoa-dusted tableau of chocolate-syrup-drenched black cocoa cake, espresso ice cream and crunchy roasted coffee bean bark. A layer of sweet chestnut spread inside the cake balanced the strong chocolate and coffee flavors. My companion ordered the raisin-studded, white-chocolate-iced spice cake. (I ate all of the caramelized walnuts on the side.) And in the interest of providing the most comprehensive review possible, I also tried the chocolate parfait, which was really a nut-sprinkled chocolate mousse atop some jelled grapes... I suppose I'm more accustomed to a cake foundation, but you'll never catch me complaining about chocolate.

Heirloom: 191 Orchard St., (212) 228-9888.

An Early Christmas Present

Yesterday threatened to elapse without one moment of deliciousness. But when I threw open the door, ready to collapse onto the couch, I noticed a mysterious package. That's funny, I thought; I hadn't ordered anything online in quite a while.

Upon closer inspection, the package appeared to be a gift, and indeed it was. A good friend (who is the proud keeper of a very enthusiastic dog) had sent me a box which contained the most amazing artisanal gingersnaps. Large chunks of sugarcoated candied ginger rendered these cookies absolutely irresistible. After downing one, I found myself reaching for another, even though they were huge. Then, I happily tumbled into bed and had sweet dreams.

Michel Cluizel Chocolat (THIS STORE CLOSED IN 2008)

Please pardon my recent lapse in posting; I've been busy consuming my own weight in chocolate. The opening of Michel Cluizel Chocolat is both a blessing and a curse, because my attempt to save room for dessert is now an attempt to save all room for dessert.

Ever since I first discovered the inconceivably chocolatey Grand Lait bar, I've been an unabashed devotee of Michel Cluizel chocolates. With a 45% cocoa content, this very special bar combines the deep complexity of dark chocolate with the richness of dairy. This is just one of the many treats at Cluizel's one-month-old cafe.

Michel Cluizel Chocolat is unapologetically adult-oriented. (Indeed, one of the guided chocolate tastings is marked "ADULTS ONLY.") There are several different "choctails" including a Chocolate Russian, and you can order assorted liqueurs in chocolate bonbon cups. This atmosphere, and the comfortable banquettes, create an aura of romance around the room. Today, one couple sitting next to me fed each other chocolate fondue. (My companion, regrettably, is on a diet.)

I didn't quite have the stamina for a 50-minute chocolate tasting, so I opted for one of the desserts. The menu included the afore-mentioned fondue accompanied by churros (perhaps taking a page from nearby Pipa's book), frozen white chocolate Chantilly, chocolate mousse, old-fashioned buttercream-frosted icebox cake, dark chocolate crullers, and chocolate-chestnut "decadent" framboise. I don't believe I've ever seen the word decadent used as a noun; I'll have to adopt this usage. Or, at the very least, I'd like to adopt the habit of eating this particular dessert on a daily basis. The tartness of the raspberry coulis was a perfect foil for a creamy dome of divinely rich chocolate-chestnut mousse. I also enjoyed a cup of Moka D'Oro coffee blended with Michel Cluizel hot chocolate mix.

Of course, I had to take a walk around the center display full of chocolate. I noticed that, like La Maison Du Chocolat, Michel Cluizel offers bouchees. These bonbons on steroids are offered in quite intriguing flavors; I chose the plum marmalade. I also bought some salted butter "Guerande" caramels and a 16-piece ballotin. I guess I just won't have room for dinner tonight!

Michel Cluizel Chocolat: 888 Broadway (inside ABC Carpet & Home), 646-602-3262.

A Mug Of Hot Tea

There's nothing more soothing to the winter-weary than a mug of tea. Today I ventured over to the new Roebling Tea Room in Williamsburg (143 Roebling, St., Brooklyn, 718-963-0760), where I found a very imaginative tea menu. Among the impressive variety of green, rooibos, white, black, herbal and mate teas were such intriguing blends as "green coconut cream" (coconut chips and green tea). I tried the cocoa nib black tea, and accompanied it with an excellent chocolate croissant. Roebling's "comestibles" menu is also appealing; there are pulled pork sandwiches, various salads, duck pate with cornichons, and baked brie. On the weekends there's a "tea brunch" with your choice of different items such as an egg and gruyere sandwich. For those of you who can't make up your mind between tea and coffee, there is the "Black Eye Chai" (chai and espresso). (Of course, this may defeat the relaxing purpose of tea.)

In Manhattan, a former antique shop now houses a Chinese tearoom: The Tea Gallery (131 Allen St., 212- 777-6148). Besides offering a high-quality selection of red, white, green and oolong teas, the Tea Gallery provides tastings and classes.

A recent (and exquisite) 8-course dinner at Ito-En's Kai (822 Madison, 212-988-7277) featured sencha and hojicha. (However, the portions were doll-sized, and I was so hungry afterwards that I was forced to order an additional dessert.) Craving the grassy sencha, I returned to the Ito En store to learn all kinds of valuable tidbits about the teamaking process. Apparently, the water must not be too hot, and should first be poured into teacups (or a special cooling cup) for cooling. The water and tea are then added to a kyusu, or teapot, which ideally should contain a porous surface to absorb the flavor of the tea. (Repeated use "seasons" the teapot.) I am now ready for some tea-making experiments of my own!

The Chocolate Show 2005

New Yorkers' passion for chocolate has apparently grown to such an extent that it can no longer be contained by just one building. The Chocolate Show 2005, traditionally held on the first floor of the Metropolitan Pavilion, has now swallowed up the adjacent Altman Building. So there's even more chocolate to explore!

Upon entering the show today, I was greeted by the Schokinag truck. Smiling women were serving both triple chocolate and mint cocoa. (Schokinag's Website is "drinkyourchocolate.com". Somehow I doubt that any parents have to admonish their children to do this.)

I'm always totally overwhelmed by the sheer expanse of chocolate in the large Metropolitan Pavilion, so I began my journey in the Altman Building. (I was still totally overwhelmed.) I admired the chocolate rendition of the Mona Lisa. Payard and J. Emanuel provided truffle samples nearby. The latter exhibitor, which featured Shiraz and Zinfandel truffles, was strategically placed next to the 21-and-over Chocolate Lounge. I walked over to one of my favorite chocolatiers, Michel Cluizel, and was delighted to learn that they're opening a new chocolate boutique today at ABC Carpet & Home! (Once I recover from this intense chocolate high, I will have to run over there.) I came away with a bag of 65% cacao Mangaro Noir and 50% Mangaro Lait squares.

Past the chocolate streetlight and "Broadway" sign was the Chocolat Weiss stand. Chocolat Weiss has existed since the early 1880s, but has developed an American presence in the last 4 years. They pride themselves on being the "authentic chocolate-maker of French gastronomy." (This sounded good to me, so I purchased a bag of their 85% cacao squares.) Then it was time for fudge brownie samples at San Francisco's Recchiuti.

Although the Altman basement was billed as housing a "chocolate spa," the spa was really just an aggregation of those ubiquitous $5 masseurs, albeit with the addition of an airborne chocolate aroma. I resolved to conquer the immense Metropolitan Building.

At the entrance were Gustaux from France and Belgian Belcolade, as well as another Schokinag location. I was immediately drawn to the Divalicious chocolate fountain, where I happily enjoyed milk-chocolate-dipped bananas. Divalicious will be opening a cafe in Nolita at the end of the month.

Moving along, I sampled the award-winning Maracaibo of Felchlin, the miraculous little chocolate-coated walnut brownies of Vere, and some Java milk from Chocolove (rather too sweet, I thought). I experienced chocolate in its deepest, richest form at the exhibit of Sweet Riot, a 6-week-old Chelsea store. (Sweet Riot offers pure cocoa nibs in different strengths. Whoa!)

I noticed two trends in chocolate this year: the altruistic and the crunchy. In the first category were New Tree, which sold "FORGIVENESS" bars (which is what I will later have to ask of my stomach), and the Chocolate Bar, which was attempting to save CBGB's.

Crunch seemed to be a factor in several chocolate items, from the chocolate-covered cornflakes at Knipschildt and Jacques Torres to the exquisite chocolate-coated feuilletine of Love In Disguise.

After snagging a Fairytale Brownie, a coupon from Peanut Butter & Co. and a green-tea truffle from Tokyo-based Mary's Chocolatier, I knew I had to stagger home. But on my way out, I couldn't resist passing by the hot cocoa stand again. A woman was asking what kind of cocoa was being served. Upon hearing that it was triple chocolate, she said, "Well, we have to get in as many antioxidants as we can." A worthy goal, I'm sure.

The Chocolate Show 2005: 125 West 18th St. Open through Sunday.

A "European Chocolate Culinary Adventure"

Now I know how we're celebrating our anniversary...

According to Culinary Travel Adventures, the head chocolatier from Vosges is joining Silverseas Luxury Cruise for a special voyage from September 13-23, 2006. The chocolatey cruise will visit Stockholm, London, Denmark, the Netherlands, Poland, Germany and Norway. Chocolate-related excursions will abound! Onboard, there will be chocolate-making classes.

For more information, call Cindy at (847) 272-2894.

Long Island City - A Cafe Crawl

If you take the 7 train just one stop into Queens, you'll be transported into Long Island City's budding shopping district. This area resembles a quaint old village that was inexplicably planted right next to a bustling metropolis. At night, its narrow streets and diminutive brick buildings are eerily illuminated by the skyscrapers of Manhattan. The Chrysler Building looks close enough to touch.

L.I.C., which is emerging from its industrial roots, has recently become home to a confluence of cafes. Each has a quite distinct character. (Starbucksification has not yet arrived in this neighborhood.)

Right across from the Vernon-Jackson subway station is TEN63 (1063 Jackson Ave., 718-482-7679). Unfortunately, I've been told that this spacious cafe will soon be demolished to make way for the construction of a luxury condo. I'm sure the locals will miss the excellent homemade hot chocolate and egg sandwiches. I ordered the avocado/cotija cheese/black bean sandwich, and although I must opine that unpureed beans don't belong in a sandwich, the bread was terrific.

I took a right on 50th Avenue and walked past Cafe Henri (1010 50th Ave., 718-383-9315). The menu was an appetizing list of crepes and croques monsieurs. (Cafe Henri is related to the popular bistro Le Gamin.) Live jazz is featured on Thursdays and Saturdays from 8-11 p.m.

I then settled in at Brasil Coffee House. The owners of this cafe are so obsessed with coffee production that they've filled the tables with coffee beans and painted an agricultural mural on the wall. (They are also ardent advocates of coffee's supposed health benefits.) I had no idea what I was ordering when I asked for the "BCM Media," but apparently it was one of the strongest drinks on the menu. It must have stimulated my appetite, because I also consumed a hot coconut muffin and a chewy Brazilian cheese bread (pao de queijo).

After this caffeinated experience, I needed to decompress at Communitea (47-02 Vernon Blvd., 718-729-7708). At this comfy tea shop, the menu is scrawled on the back wall, and the chairs look like they were lifted from the local schoolhouse. Communitea truly has something for everyone; both beef and tofu hot dogs are available in organic white or whole wheat buns. I enjoyed a cup of freshly brewed sencha. All categories of tea are offered: black, green, oolong, white, flavored and herbal. The service is friendly and warm.

(On my way back to the subway, I caught sight of a sign that said "Cafe." Apparently this was the now-closed, much-missed L.I.C. Cafe. Fortunately for food-lovers, the owner is now operating a catering shop in the space, and he'll soon open a cooking school called Peter's Pans. 5-48 49th Ave., 718-752-0282.)

Cube 63 (Brooklyn)

Are you one of those people who, after ordering the sushi combination, invariably sighs, "Where's the good stuff?" You are always bemoaning the lack of eel and the scarcity of yellowtail. Here's a solution for you: the Cube 63 special. At just $20, it contains only salmon, yellowtail, eel and tuna. So you won't have to order the more expensive a la carte, but neither will you have to pick through the egg and the dreaded crab stick! (I actually quite like the egg, myself.)

It seems that every day a Manhattan restaurant opens a new location in trendy Brooklyn. Cube 63 happens to be the third restaurant that I've experienced in Brooklyn before Manhattan (the other two are Blue Ribbon Sushi and Brooklyn Fish Camp). I'm so glad I did. The complimentary spicy tuna amuse-bouche won me over before I'd even ordered. (How often do you go to a sushi bar and receive 4 free pieces of sushi?)

My friend began with the vegetable gyoza. I thought they needed some ginger or white pepper, but I enjoyed my "Puerto Rico" maki (what on earth is this, you ask?): lobster salad and tempura eel in thinly sliced cucumber cups. For the more authentically-inclined, Cube 63 does have a sizable nigirizushi menu which includes delights like Spanish mackerel and sea eel.

Upon receiving her a la carte selection, my friend exclaimed, "Such tender fish!" And indeed it was, slippery and silky on the tongue. I was originally going to order the omakase, but my Puerto Rico roll had somewhat filled me up and I went with the Cube 63 special. (I'm one of those who greatly appreciates the presence of eel!) There were eight pieces of sushi and a delicious spicy tuna roll with a sweet miso coulis.

I really don't know why we ordered dessert after this, because I was about to burst, and my friend doesn't have much of a sweet tooth. But we did order some green-tea ice cream, both plain and in a chewy mochi preparation.

On a side note, I am always amazed by the constant transformation of Cobble Hill, and to a lesser extent, Park Slope. I'm starting to lose count of how many restaurants have opened on Smith Street since I moved out of the borough!

Cube 63 Brooklyn: 234 Court St., (718) 243-2208.

A Fall Afternoon In Cold Spring

The quaint town of Cold Spring is awash in freshly baked goods! Although NYC is home to several superlative bakeries, there's something about the backdrop of bright autumn leaves that lends extra flavor to a hot muffin. (That't not to say that I don't enjoy my fougasse in the concrete jungle, of course.)

Cold Spring, which boasts a spectacular view of the Hudson River, is just an hour and 15 minutes from the city. The train from Grand Central will deposit you right into the thick of things, and you may want to start your tour with a trip to Provincial Home (80 Main St., 845-265-5360). The European ceramics store offers a wide variety of jams which you'll want to spread on all the baked goods you're soon to enjoy. Sweet jams include red papaya grapefruit and savories include roasted red pepper.

Next, walk over to The Foundry Cafe (55 Main St., 845-265-4504). There, you'll find a changing assortment of cheesecakes (rated "orgasmic" by Hudson Valley Magazine), crumbles (today, it was apple peach blueberry cranberry), muffins and pies. Brownies come both with walnuts and without. (The Foundry is also wonderful in the omelette department... have one with ham and Swiss or pesto and tomato.) Sugar-dusted multi-grain pancakes are served on Saturdays and Sundays only.

The apple cake at the Pig Hill Inn (73 Main St., 845-265-9347) is for guests only, but you might consider lodging there just to be able to feast on it! The Pig Hill Inn is renowned for its excellent breakfast.

Walking further down Main Street, you will notice fresh cheesecakes and pecan pies at the Cold Spring Cafe (129 Main St., 845-265-9471). But wait, there's more! If you take a right on Chestnut Street, you'll soon find a beloved shrine for baked goods aficionados: The Main Course. This small catering company bakes raspberry muffins, biscotti, almond pound cake, chocolate-chip cookies and much more! (I also could not resist their caramelized butternut squash and spinach-watercress vichysoisse.) Pick up one of their excellent packaged salads for the trip home; you might especially enjoy the grilled chicken Caesar or the mesclun with Montrachet.

Since the weather was warm until recently, the leaves in Cold Spring are only changing just now. So there's still time to enjoy the beautiful fall colors!

Breakfast Envy at Thomas Beisl

Have you ever coveted your neighbor's plate? This morning at Thomas Beisl, I looked longingly at my friend's breakfast. Ironically, I had suggested that she order that particular selection: the brioche French toast. Three-inch-thick slices of eggy brioche were snowed under with confectioners sugar, thickly spread with homemade apricot jam and festooned with caramelized bananas. The whole glorious mess was accompanied by real maple syrup and creme fraiche.

(My friend didn't care much for the creme fraiche, but as she gleefully poured on the syrup, she regaled me with stories from her New England childhood. Apparently she used to tap maple trees and enjoy wintertime "maple snow." Her mother would heat up the maple syrup and pour it over a handful of freshly fallen backyard snow.)

I had ordered the intriguing-sounding souffled pancakes with fruit compote and raisins. But although I enjoyed the stewed plums in the compote, the pancakes were more like pieces of heavy fried dough with none of the airiness of a souffled preparation. Fortunately, my friend was generous with her French toast, and I believe I will order it the next time we meet for brunch. (I later consoled myself with a fresh-out-the-oven wild blueberry muffin at Blue Sky Bakery.)

Thomas Beisl: 25 Lafayette Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 222-5800.

The Heavenly Japanese Sweet Potato

The Japanese sweet potato, which is harvested in fall, always fills me with indescribable delight. Sweeter than the American version, it has red skin and delicious yellow flesh. When I was in Tokyo, I used to gorge on cubes of fresh sweet potato fudge, but I also like the potato as it was prepared this evening at Soba Ya: steamed and sliced thickly, sprinkled with crunchy black sesame seeds and drizzled with sugar syrup. Yum!

Soba-Ya: 229 East 9th St., (212) 533-6966.

Sweets News

Despite the tropical weather, cool temperatures are fast approaching. In fact, I believe that this weekend will bring our first taste of fall. That's why I was excited to learn that The Chocolate Room is once again offering its beloved bittersweet hot chocolate. I look forward to some cozy (and chocolatey) autumn afternoons!

But if the prospect of a mug of hot chocolate isn't enough incentive for you to visit this Park Slope cafe, chew on this: Fritz Knipchildt himself will be teaching a truffle-making class on Monday, October 17th from 7-8:30 p.m.! Call (718) 783-2900 for more information.

718 Restaurant

Although those hip "718" logo T-shirts refer to the borough of Brooklyn, I'd be happy to wear one as an advertisement for this French bistro in Astoria. Yesterday, my companion and I trekked over there for a delicious lunch.

I hope we don't begin make a habit of this, but we ordered the same entree: the "lovely" tuna sandwich (lovely, indeed!). The sandwiches consisted of seared medium-rare tuna steaks, which were outwardly crisp and inwardly pink, and paper-thin mango slices on lightly toasted rolls. (There was none of the advertised avocado, but the spicy mayonnaise added enough oomph to preclude its necessity.) Our inner children were delighted by the large cones of well-salted, impeccably-fried potatoes, and we sneaked in a bit of virtue by munching on the mesclun salad.

My companion and I are beginning to realize that Forest Hills has been a culinary disappointment, aside from Nick's Pizza, Cheese of the World, and Thai Pot. Therefore, we may decide to move in the direction of 718!

718: 35-01 Ditmars Blvd., Astoria, (718) 204-5553.

Lunch At Komegashi (Closed after 2005)

Did you know about the lunch special at Komegashi? For $13.50, you get a cup of miso soup sweet with daikon radish, a refreshing mesclun salad, a maki of the day (today, yellowtail scallion) and three skewers of the grilled meat or fish of your choice. Komegashi, a Japanese fusion spot known for its inventive dishes (steak frites maki, anyone?) really shines in the grill department. My salmon, yellowtail and yellowfin tuna were tasty and tender, and the accompanying olive-anchovy tapenade was addictive. (Other available skewers include ribeye, duck, and asparagus.)

Komegashi: 928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000.

Osteria Del Sole (Closed as of March 2008)

The name of this osteria refers to the sunny regions of Italy which inform the cuisine featured here, but it could just as well describe the warm and friendly service. The host and waitstaff were so pleasant last night that my friend and I were happy to wait for over a half-hour in the bustling space. We sat down a little after 10:30 p.m.

Luca, our Florentine waiter, endured our sad attempts at communicating in Italian, and soon brought out rosemary flatbreads with a spicy tomato emulsion, an appetizer of three dollops of buffalo mozzarella interspersed with ripe red and yellow tomatoes and marinated peppers, and a grilled portobello mushroom "tower" in tomato sauce. We were already quite satisfied without having yet eaten the main meal.

Then a bowl of breadcrumb-topped spaghettini arrived, with saltiness provided by the dried mullet roe - arugula and tomatoes provided a vegetal touch. A fusilli tossed with black olives and capers arrived with several giant heads-on shrimp (only $13.95). By this time it was almost midnight and I decided to forgo dessert, but my friend happily devoured a frozen peach stuffed with creamy peach sorbet.

We said goodbye to charming Luca and it was time to compete for a cab.

Osteria del Sole: 267 West 4th St., (212) 620-6840.

Salli Vates Gets Married

My companion and I decided that we would like to share a lifetime of delicious meals. It was only fitting that we start our new lives together with some of the tastiest food imaginable. If any of you are planning a wedding, I cannot recommend Standing Room Only Caterers highly enough; our guests were oohing and aahing all the way from the pre-ceremony orange iced tea to the final course.

I must also let you know that it was no easy feat rescuing the top layer of Sarabeth's yellow genoise chocolate-espresso-marmalade truffle-filled wedding cake. And I hope we still have a few of the Vosges cherry kirsch and macadamia nut-coconut chocolate truffle favors.

You might ask, how did I know when to get married? I think it was when I could predict with accuracy which foods would mysteriously disappear from my refrigerator when my companion was visiting.

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The Menu

Orange Iced Tea
Mango Mojitos

Summer Vegetables
Tuna Tartare with Wasabi Aioli on a Grilled Tortilla Triangle
Breast of Duck with Candied Kumquats on a Sweet Potato Gaufrite
Aged Ricotta Bruschetta
Cashew-Encrusted Chicken with Citrus Marmalade
Honey and Cilantro Cured Salmon on a Tiny Corn Pancake with Mango and Papaya Salsa
“Scrambled” Eggs topped with Shaved Truffles in a Phyllo Cup
Tiny Buckwheat Blini with Crème Fraiche and Caviar
Hoisin Beef Skewers with Hoisin Ginger Dipping Sauce

Assorted Nigiri-Zushi
Steamed Edamame with Rock Salt
Warm Paper-thin Crepe with Chicken, Hoisin Sauce, Homemade Plum Sauce, Shredded Napa Cabbage and Toasted Sesame Seed
Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche with Avocado and Diced Tomato in a Lime Vinaigrette
Wild Mushroom and Butternut Squash Empanadas
Crab Cakes With a Warm Cilantro Vinaigrette
Fresh Figs with Honey Herbed Chevre in a Balsamic Reduction
Crispy Baby Artichokes

Mixed Green Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette and Spring Rolls
Tenderloin of Beef with Potato Napoleon, Sauteed Spinach in Garlic and Olive Oil
Sauce of Oven Roasted Red and Yellow Tomatoes in a Red Wine Reduction
Pan Sauteed Sea Bass with Roasted Corn, Zucchini, Diced Tomatoes, Chanterelles, White Beans on a bed of Basmati Rice, Seasoned Haricots Verts

Tiny Sorbet in the shape of fruits and berries
Wedding Cake sprinkled with Powdered Sugar or Cocoa, Drizzled with Raspberry Puree
Linzer Heart Cookies
Iced Cappuccino with Rock Candy Swizzle Sticks

Chocolate Fountain with Large Driscoll Strawberries, Pretzels, Marshmallows, Biscotti, and Dried Fruit

Sweets News

Choux Factory, the Upper East Side creampuff mecca, will be testing out a new flavor from September 19-October 2. Go and show your support for caramel creampuffs!

Choux Factory: 1685 First Ave., (212) 289-2023.

Mushroom Mania at SOS Chefs

I mistakenly assumed that SOS Chefs was just another imported condiment store. Little did I know that I was soon to discover the shop's true raison d'etre! On a recent visit, while I was admiring the olive oil, one of the owners invited me into the sacred back room. "Here, you can come back and look," she said in the hushed tones one would use when peeking in on a sleeping infant.

She opened the heavy door, we entered a chilled little cave, and my jaw dropped in amazement. There before me was the most abundant profusion of every kind of wild mushroom I could imagine. Red lobster mushrooms, purplish bluefoots, morels, nameko, chanterelles... I don't think I've ever witnessed such a passion for mushrooms!

And now that the season of ripe peaches is giving way to the one of root vegetables, it's time to peruse some new recipes and buy a truckload of wild autumn mushrooms.

SOS Chefs of New York: 104 Avenue B, (212) 505-5813.

Valrhona Chocolate Pudding

When I was a child, my mother constantly shooed me away from the brownie batter. She tried to placate me by letting me lick the bowl after she'd poured out the chocolatey mixture, but I was always left vaguely unsatisfied. Today, I bought a container of Valrhona chocolate pudding at Grand Central Market's Dishes At Home. My first spoonful instantly filled me with nostalgia, for the rich, creamy pudding tasted exactly like that brownie batter I'd always craved. And now I can indulge to my heart's content!

Dishes At Home: Grand Central Station, (212) 370-5511.

Hedonism Is Healthy

Now I don't feel so guilty about subsisting on chocolate and coffee.

Ushi-what? Ushiwakamaru!

The name of this basement sushi bar refers to a famous samurai, but the only knives wielded here are those of the expert sushi chefs.

Although Ushiwakamaru shares the casual atmosphere of other Houston Street restaurants, its sushi, and its prices, are serious. My sushi special was $34.50, and the chef's choice was $70 and up. And it seems that although both soup and salad were once served with an entrée, one must now choose between them. Fortunately, the food is of very high quality, and the sushi chefs are happy to speak about it. Last night, I overheard one of them educating a customer about the different grades of toro.

I began the meal with a bowl of scalliony miso soup and the chawan mushi (steamed egg custard) appetizer. The latter hid all kinds of tasty treasures (shrimp, whitefish and gingko nuts).

Soon afterwards, I was served a tray of seven perfect pieces of sushi (shrimp, snapper, two kinds of yellowtail and tuna, and clam). Although I enjoyed every bite, I wondered, was that all? I was relieved when the waitress carried another tray to my table. On this second tray were three pieces of tuna-scallion maki, creamy, nutty uni (perhaps the highlight of the evening), mirin-sweetened salmon roe, eel, and sweet egg cake stamped with Ushiwakamaru's logo.

The dessert menu included mochi, grapefruit jelly, ice cream and sweet bean soup; I abstained. (However, I later found myself buying a bag of chocolate-chip cookies at Whole Foods.)

Ushiwakamaru: 136 West Houston St., (212) 228-4181.

Coming Soon: Galleria Illy

Lovers of fine espresso, here's a reason to rejoice!

Soba Koh

The simple act of walking down a different street can expose one to an exciting food adventure. Last night, I intended to pick up a snack at Caracas Arepa Bar. But as I walked up 2nd Avenue, I thought to myself, why not turn right on East 5th Street instead of East 6th? Soon, I was learning about the great culinary reputation of Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost island, and about ingredients like myoga, a kind of wild ginger which grows in in Japanese country backyards. Soba Koh was the setting for this enjoyable lesson, and Miho, a charming waitress, was my guide to the menu.

The Hakodate-born chef of Soba Koh, formerly of Takahachi Restaurant, is now pleasing our palates with slightly chewy, hand-cut, speckled buckwheat soba noodles. Soba is delicious both hot and cold, but there is nothing more refreshing than swirling a pile of cold noodles in a bracing soy-wasabi sauce.

The menu at Soba Koh features many ways to enjoy hot or cold soba: with yam and quail egg, duck and eggplant, or soft-shell crab, or in a daily special (last night, it was sea eel tempura soba).

There's also a mouthwatering selection of appetizers, including many permutations of buckwheat... sobagome, agesoba, and agedashi sobayaki (fried soba gnocchi stuffed with chicken). I opted instead for the homemade organic tofu, which was topped with a blanket of intensely green basil sauce and the aforementioned myoga. The spicy topping was a perfect foil for the cool, mild cubes of tofu.

Then, I feasted on the soba special, which consisted of two large strips of battered sweet eel, a shishito pepper, a large plate of noodles, soy-ginger sauce, scallions and wasabi. As I slurped up the last tasty noodle, Miho brought by a bowl of soba-yu (broth) to combine with the remaining sauce.

Any reasonable person would have considered this the end of their meal, but I had to go one step further and order the highly recommended black sesame pudding. Although its dark-grey color was initially alarming, the rich flavor (somewhere between coffee and almond) immediately drew me in.

I'm already thinking about going back...

Soba Koh: 309 East 5th St., (212) 254-2244.

A Craving For Crayfish

I never realized that crayfish were so popular in NYC until this year. A couple months ago, I saw the critters awaiting their Szechuan fate in the open kitchen of Momofuku Noodle Bar (163 First Ave). Then I became aware of the various crayfish preparations (etouffee, in pasta, or on cheese toast) at Mara's Homemade. And just now, I was told that it's Crayfish Week at Aquavit. Until August 21, this venerable Swedish restaurant is offering 4-course dinners and all-you-can-peel-and-eat lunches!

Aquavit: 65 East 55th St., (212) 307-7311.

Sake Bar Satsko

If you'd like to develop your appreciation of sake, here's an enjoyable and economical way to do so: visit Sake Bar Satsko on a Tuesday or Wednesday night. This East Village hangout, decorated in typical bohemian fashion, offers $20 tastings which include a selection of 6 different sakes accompanied by delicious Japanese appetizers. Park yourself on a barstool, or sit down on a shiny red pillow to admire the 4-page sake menu. You can also indulge in something more substantial, like a plate of jumbo shrimp seasoned with black pepper, fried garlic and scallions. (I especially like the the tuna tartare, which features large chunks of raw marinated tuna glistening with sesame oil.)

Satsko is WiFi-enabled and open till 4 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Sake Bar Satsko: 202 East 7th St., (212) 614-0933.

The Best Mango Lassi In NYC

Yesterday was the latest in a long string of sweltering days, and I was in dire need of refreshment. I was craving mango lassi, the Indian yogurt shake. Most Indian restaurants in NYC serve a supersweet version of lassi made with canned mango juice. So, I was expecting the same when I ordered the drink at Hampton Chutney Co. But with my first sip, I noticed an immediate difference: the telltale pulpiness of fresh fruit. The sweetness of the lassi was mostly derived from just-pureed ripe mangos, not sugar. I believe Hampton Chutney Co. may serve the best mango lassi in NYC!

Hampton Chutney Co., 68 Prince Street (212) 226-9996.

Bedford Cheese Shop

Every neighborhood needs a cheese store as fabulous as Williamsburg's Bedford Cheese Shop. I fell in love with this place when the counterperson wordlessly pressed a hefty sample of Comte de Montagne into my hand. The nutty, sweet firm cheese was just what I'd been craving, and soon a quarter-pound of it was mine. (The amusing description for this lovely cheese reads: "This cheese, aged 100 meters above sea level, looks down on you and says, "I'm better than you. Way better.")

Bedford Cheese Shop offers everything from Australian feta to burrata. If you want to make sense of it all, you can purchase Steven Jenkins' Cheese Primer.

But if for some reason you're not in the mood for the cheese display, take advantage of the shelves! Check out the small but well-chosen assortment of bread (I ended up with a round potato-onion loaf), the array of Italian sausages (including sweet and hot sopressata), the jars of PB Loco's Dutch chocolate peanut butter or the candied orange-almond cookies and fig-rosemary wine flats from Red Hook's Fanciulla Foods. Today, I splurged on the aforementioned cheese, a jar of English lemon curd made with free-range eggs, a few sugarplums, some white anchovies, and pear vanilla butter from CMB Sweets!

Bedford Cheese Shop, 218 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 599-7588.

There Is Such Thing As A Free Lunch

Or, more accurately, 15 free lunches, if you win a competition sponsored by macktez.com. Go over to the Landmark Coffee Shop (158 Grand Street), write a review of your meal, and submit it to the Macktez Website by 12 p.m. on August 8. The winner gets two weeks of free lunch!

Anatomy Of A Cake Tasting

It's wedding season, and yours truly has decided to take the plunge. As you might imagine, cake is one of the reasons I get up in the morning, so I've been having all kinds of wonderful daydreams about a beautiful, scrumptious wedding cake.

I'm not fond of fondant; I like a decadent buttercream that's edible through and through. So, when choosing our vendor, I approached the Queen of Meringue Buttercream Herself: Sarabeth Levine. Sarabeth prides herself on her smooth, rich buttercream, which has the visual perfection of fondant without the waxy texture.

Sarabeth does all cake tastings in her Chelsea Market bakery. It's difficult not to be tempted by the goodies at the counter, and as I waited for our appointment last week, I collected a peach tart, chocolate-chip cookies, blueberry-corn muffins, brownies and a "Sarabeth's Famous Grilled Cheese Sandwich." Then, before I could do any more damage, Sarabeth strode out in a white coat and brought me into the kitchen. She plopped several jars onto a large wooden table, and then brought out some small discs of yellow genoise.

"Um, Sarabeth," I said meekly, "weren't we doing a chocolate cake?" "Chocolate wedding cake is too heavy," she remarked. "Although, I do make a rich, chocolate chocolate truffle cake... but you'll love this, try what I have here." I trusted her implicitly and abandoned my wild ideas for five different tiers of cake (hazelnut mousse! raspberry mousse! etc.).

The jars contained pure buttercream, Callebaut chocolate truffle, chocolate espresso truffle, homemade marmalade, and Sarabeth's famous strawberry-raspberry preserves. Sarabeth slathered the moist genoise with layers of buttercream, marmalade, and a mixture of the chocolate and chocolate espresso truffle. (She had me try the chocolate with and without the added coffee accent; we both agreed that the coffee brought the chocolate truffle to the next rich level.) She then added two more layers of genoise, and put a metal cylinder over the delicious mini-layer cake to shape it. She cut a piece for me, and I was on cloud nine. I could barely concentrate as she explained how she would add a bit of orange juice to the buttercream to complement the marmalade in the filling, and how she always added a bit of buttercream between the layers of cake.

To ensure that I was happy with my decision (apparently, only one in ten people chooses chocolate-orange; many more choose lemon), I was also asked to try the chocolate-strawberry-raspberry combination. Although this was delightful as well, the slight tartness of the marmalade so expertly complemented the rich chocolate truffle as to make up my mind.

Sarabeth then packed up little containers of all the components so that my mother and my intended could taste each of them separately. (She is truly a woman passionate about her ingredients!) We then went into her back office to speak about cake decorations, but all I could think about was that chocolate-coffee-orange-buttercream filling...

Sarabeth's Bakery: Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave., (212) 989-2424.

Aburiya Kinnosuke

This new favorite of Japanese businessmen provides the spectacle of Megu on a much more intimate scale. Various delicacies arrive on personal charcoal grills (shichirin), or in hotpots with flames which magically disappear when the meal is ready. Amazingly, Aburiya offers this authentic experience at a fraction of Megu's cost. Last night, a friend and I enjoyed an impressive 7-course feast for only $30 each!

Since the menu was divided into so many categories, we decided to try as many different preparations as possible. We chose a hotpot, a shichirin, a chef's special, a tofu dish, a grilled vegetable, a tsukune (chicken meatball) and an eel dish.

After a cup of roasted green tea, we began with the black sesame tofu. This pudding-like dish, which we ate with wooden spoons, was made especially flavorful with the addition of rich soy sauce. Then, the personal grill was delivered to us with a healthy portion of tarako, or cod roe caviar. The waitress helpfully informed us that the caviar would change color when it was ready to be eaten, and indeed it turned from bright orange to light pink.

Soon, a tray of strips of lemon-zested fresh-water eel was served. For those of you more accustomed to the barbecued glazed eel (unagi) at sushi bars, this eel was white and slightly chewy. There were about 10 strips of the delicious fish on our tray.

The chef's special, a foil-wrapped salmon, was the star of the evening. The experience of eating this tender, moist fish could only be described as sensual. We tore it apart and ate every last bite. We accompanied the salmon with a grilled head of garlic with sweet miso jam.

Then it was time for an oniony chicken meatball, which arrived, interestingly, with a bowl of steamed egg for dipping. (Are you going to ask "which came first?") We'd had a choice of "salt" or "teriyaki" for the chicken, and were glad we'd chosen the latter, as the meatball was glazed with a tasty sweet soy sauce. It was so large that the waitress was able to cut it into 8 piecesa.

We'd also ordered an eel hotpot (there were three choices: eel, mushroom or pork). For most of the evening, I anxiously glanced at the flame, wondering when the treat would be ready. Then, after becoming lost in the enjoyment of the other dishes, I happened to look over to see that the flame had gone out! We pulled off the scorchingly hot lid to reveal steaming glutinous rice covered with sweet barbecued eel. A small plate of sansho pepper and shiso leaves was provided for seasoning.

We would've liked to have tried the sushi specials (fatty tuna, amberjack) or a fried dish (or dessert!), but our stomachs protested. However, I have a feeling that we'll be back at Aburiya Kinnosuke very soon.

Aburiya Kinnosuke: 213 East 45th St., (212) 867-5454.

Saravanaas

As I've written before, finding good Indian food in NYC is not an easy task. However, the opening of Saravanaas has truly improved the Indian restaurant scene!

Open since only last Thursday, this cheery little place was packed last night, even 30 minutes before closing. But although there were many patrons, the service was charming and attentive. (A word to the meatophiles: Saravanaas is completely vegetarian.)

The menu includes appetizers, a dosa corner, thalis, a rice corner and a bread corner. I am of the "try as much as you can" school, so I ordered a thali, or, combination meal. Paying lip service to moderation, I asked for the smallest thali, the mini tiffin.

Along came a round silver tray on which sat a gut-busting variety of food. "Is that all for me?" I asked, astonished. There was a Thermos-sized masala dosa with a side of lentil gravy, a portion of idli stew, a mound of roasted farina, coconut chutney and a spicy green mayonnaise-like sauce, and finally, a "sweetmeat." The masala dosa, a kind of crispy crepe, was ultra-light and contained a toothsome spiced mashed potato filling. I'm truly a fan of idli, the little lentil-flour frisbees that are somewhat akin to gnocchi, so I enjoyed the stew of carrots, green beans and idli with a bit of bay leaf and mustard seed. The chili-spiced farina was mixed with onions, tomatoes and peas. Everything was gloriously spicy. "Hot enough for you?" asked the waiter. "We want to see you glow!"

After enjoying a few bites of raisin-studded sweetmeat and a sip of mango lassi, it was finally time to go. (Upon leaving, I noticed a pile of advertisements for a yoga class. As if one could even think of exercising after such a meal!)

Saravanaas: 81 Lexington Ave., (212) 679-0204.

Oms/b

Omusubi, or Japanese rice balls stuffed with various fillings, are the perfect picnic food. They're much more portable than sandwiches, since the fillings are tightly packed inside the rice. The rice also protects the perishable fillings against the heat. Usually, omusubi are filled with salmon, tuna, cod roe, or salty plum paste. However, a Manhattan cafe, Oms/b, offers a Baskin-Robbins-like menu of omusubi flavors. Bored of salmon flakes? Try the chili mayo-coated fried shrimp popcorn on chive rice. Tired of tuna? Maybe you should order the marinated ribs on lettuce-wrapped rice, or the buttery sauteed scallops and asparagus on peppered rice with spinach.

Oms/b also serves a variety of refreshing summer desserts. (However, you'll want to eat these right up, as they're too perishable for a picnic.) So, after you've downed a few omusubi, you'll want a nutty black and white sesame panna cotta topped with a blackberry, or a Japanese citrus cheesecake, or a creamy jasmine orange mousse.

Oms/b: 156 East 45th St., (212) 922-9788. The cafe closes at 7:30 p.m.; for the greatest variety of omusubi, make sure to arrive much earlier.

Museum Meals

The recent heat wave has chased me into air-conditioned movie theatres and museums. But I must shamefully admit that upon entering a museum, one of my first acts is to scope out the dining options. An empty stomach inhibits my appreciation of fine art!

However, I generally like to eat a lighter meal before strolling through an exhibition, rather than indulging in a multi-course feast. Last week, I decided to compare light meals at MOMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Although I cannot offer you an informed comparison of the exhibitions, I must say that MOMA came out the culinary winner.

At the Met cafeteria, I sat down to a forlorn strip of dried-out salmon with a side of inedible pineapple salsa, tasteless asparagus and potatoes. (In the Met's defense, there was a nice smoothie bar.) But the Bar at MOMA was a more artistic experience on all levels! A hearty artichoke cream soup with Maine lobster, wild mushroom-chorizo wontons, and seared tuna provided my friends and I with much satisfaction. The only problem with such good food at a museum restaurant is that it is difficult to pull yourself away from the table!

Cheesy Music

This avant-garde drummer has brought a whole new meaning to "playing with one's food."

Fig & Olive

Following in the footsteps of La Table O & Co., the new Fig & Olive opened its doors on the Upper East Side. The two-month old Mediterranean cafe sports an olive bar and a pantry full of extra-virgin olive oil from France, Italy and Spain. Complementary olive oil tastings are offered; yesterday, the tasting consisted of three oils described as "warm and buttery," "peppery" and "crisp."

The cafe serves a delightful weekend brunch; I enjoyed the Mediterranean eggs served on homemade fougasse with marinated raw salmon, dill and white cheese. Other menu items include various carpaccios such as Spanish ham with Aguibal Manzanilla olive oil, and a selection of tartines, salads and soups. After your meal, don't forget to take home a bag of fig walnut biscotti or fresh-baked honey-lavender madeleines.

So if your holiday plans don't include Provence, just hop a cab to Lexington Avenue!

Fig & Olive: 808 Lexington Ave., (212) 207-4555

Adrienne's Pizza Bar

It didn't take long for the hordes of downtown pizza fanatics to discover Adrienne's! At 12:05 p.m. yesterday, there were only a couple bar seats left and no tables. Now, Stone Street is the spot for Swedish open-faced sandwiches, decadent French pastries, and awesome pan pizza.

$15 will get you 10 hefty square slices (enough for 3 people) served in a big rectangular pan. And don't spend your money on extra cheese... Parmesan is already baked into the crispy crust, and you'll also be served a dish of freshly shredded cheese to sprinkle to your heart's content.

Adrienne's Pizza Bar: 54 Stone St., (212) 248-3838. Get there early!

Thai Pot - Forest Hills Gets Spicy (Finally!)

It might not be Sripraphai, but the new Thai Pot on Queens Boulevard knows how to serve up some spice! The kitchen turns up the heat with long chilies, fire-roasted red chili paste and chili oil. Tonight, a catfish special was full of chili seeds (just the way I like it). So if you don't feel like going to Woodside, yet you want something more piquant than a pierogi, I suggest you head over to Thai Pot!

Thai Pot: 103-07 Queens Blvd., Forest Hills, (718) 897-3898.

Brooklyn Fish Camp

I've always been intimidated by the line at Mary's Fish Camp, so I was excited to hear about the opening of their new sister restaurant, Brooklyn Fish Camp. This weekend, I scurried over to Park Slope. Fortunately, I was able to score a table at lunchtime, but the waitress informed me that the dinner scene is much more competitive.

The blue-walled space is quite inviting; there's a long, narrow bar at the entrance and an outdoor dining area in the back. The menu is almost identical to Mary's... you'll find the same lobster knuckles, Canadian steamers, etc. On the day I went, there were four fish specials: black tilapia, Costa Rican red snapper, dourade and black sea bass.

At the table next to me, a man had made short work of an obviously gargantuan fish, leaving a pile of bones and tail on a small dish. I wondered what had been so delicious. "He had the tilapia," said my waitress. "Of all the fish we have today, I recommend that one if you want fried fish. It comes with grilled vegetables." I decided to add a side of Old Bay-seasoned matchstick fries to my order.

I really shouldn't have; the pile of fries must have measured half a foot in height. And the fish would have been a meal for Moby Dick! A giant batter-fried tilapia overwhelmed the plate, crushing a timid assortment of sliced vegetables. The man next to me chuckled. "You should've asked them to fillet it for you."

Thus challenged, I made an effort to consume the entire tilapia. I relished the tasty, crunchy batter and tore away at the moist, sweet fish underneath. But after eating only half, I was already full. There was no way I could scale that mountain of fries. Still, the man was impressed. "Great job!"

The waitress, also impressed, asked if I would like to finish with a steamed lemon pudding, a fresh strawberry shortcake, or a hot fudge sundae with gelato from Il Laboratorio del Gelato. I had to decline. (But I couldn't help noticing later that the nearby Chocolate Room has a new summer menu, which features white chocolate lemon mousse, chocolate strawberry shortcake and frozen hot chocolate.)

Brooklyn Fish Camp: 162 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 783-3264.

Find Any Foodstuff

I adore the food search function of Manhattan's Menupages.com.

In just 5 seconds, I found 23 restaurants in the Village that serve frites. Lobster is an item on 85 Upper West Side menus, and there are 20 places on the Lower East Side that offer chocolate cake! If there is someone in your family whose diet consists of only one food, this search will be an invaluable addition to your Favorites folder.

Sweets News

On Wednesday, June 22, Andre's Hungarian Pastries of Queens will open a Manhattan store. The store, which will be located on 2nd Avenue between 84th and 85th, will feature a comfy cafe. (The original shop is take-out only.) I'm sure my grandmother (and yours) will be there every day.

Apparently, candy makes people more organized, hardworking and creative!

Margaritas, Anyone?

I've just returned from the Canadian Rockies, where the daytime temperature was around 60 degrees. As you can imagine, I'm having trouble adjusting to the heat wave you all have been suffering through. So, I've decided to post the Metropolitan Pavilion's prickly pear margarita recipe... because desert temperatures call for new ways to consume cactus.

9 ounces white tequila
4 ounces orange-flavored liqueur (recommended: Cointreau)
4 ounces cactus pear juice, plus more for the rim
2 ounces fresh lime juice
1 1/2 cups crushed ice
Coarse salt, optional
Lime wedges, for garnish

Place tequila, orange liqueur, cactus pear juice, lime juice, and ice in a blender and blend until smooth. Carefully pour a few ounces of cactus pear juice onto a plate and a few ounces of salt onto another plate. Dip the rim of each margarita glass into the juice and then into the salt. Pour margaritas into each glass and garnish with a lime wedge.

A Much-Needed Vacation

Even the most die-hard New Yorker needs a break from the action once in a while. To that end, I am going on vacation for about a month. In my brief absence, I recommend that you make several trips to Ama (CLOSED AS OF 6/09) to enjoy such delights as: panzarotti (miniature fried calzones bursting with melted cheese), rock shrimp scattered over fava bean lasagne, and orecchiette in an intensely buttery sauce with crumbled sweet sausage. Oh, and I mustn't leave you without a chocolate suggestion: the cioccolato caldo e freddo, a scoop of pudding-rich chocolate gelato next to its warm, cakey counterpart. Enjoy!

(P.S. Since I am never far from a computer, or for that matter, a restaurant, I may decide to post at Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page... but only if I consume something sufficiently delicious.)

Ama: 48 MacDougal St., (212) 358-1707.

The Ten Best Pastry Chefs in America

Last night, I lived every dessert lover's dream: I attended Chocolatier's "Ten Best Pastry Chefs in America" awards! Fortunately for us New Yorkers, six of the chefs can be found concocting their sweet creations right in our city. So, when you dine at Daniel, Babbo, Chanterelle, Spice Market, 66, WD-50 or a B.R. Guest restaurant, make sure you leave room for dessert!

A Very Important Sweets News Item

Pastry lovers rejoice: the Bouley Bakery re-opened yesterday! Triple-chocolate muffins, dense dark chocolate brownies, orange tarts, palmiers and more are now available right across the street from the restaurant. (And for those more inclined towards the savory, the next-door market, "Upstairs," will soon feature a sushi bar and cooking classes.)

Bouley Bakery Market: 130 West Broadway, (212) 219-1011.

Cafe Regular

Although Brooklyn seems to be a controversial subject lately, even the borough's detractors must admit that one of NYC's best cappuccinos can be found there. Where, exactly? At Cafe Regular, on 11th Street off of 5th Avenue.

This tiny cafe, so narrow that you can almost reach an arm across it, offers only the bare essentials: a few beverages, baked goods, and hard-boiled eggs. But what essentials they are! La Colombe Nizza beans, which are billed as boasting a "sweet flavor and a softer Northern Italian style," provide the basis for the cafe's espressos, cappuccinos and lattes. Cappuccinos sport a thick layer of fluffy foam. You can accompany your drink with a slice of cinnamon-striped pound cake from Marquet, or just a copy of the London Review of Books (several editions are draped across the doorway for your reading pleasure).

Cafe Regular: 318A 11th St., Brooklyn, (718) 768-4170.